Wednesday, May 26 1999 : Tour du Pays


The second week has been going smoothly. The weather has cleared, the sun is shining and the temperatures have soared into the 80s. We have our classes every morning, which does not prevent the students from relaxing at a local café or going out to purchase the local paper, Le Dauphiné Libéré, which just ran an article about the group's activities in Faverges. The picture at right below shows Egle waving the newspaper which contains her picture sampling cheese at last Wednesday's marché. You can see the article by clicking on the photo at right below...

On Wednesday we took advantage of the beautiful weather by spending some extra time at the marché. Unlike last week, when it was raining, the marché today was mobbed and many more vendors had come to show off their wares. We admired the displays of garlic, fresh vegetables and fruit.

Some of the students examined merchandise as diverse as earrings, clothes, slippers, and cheese, while others expressed shock upon seeing fresh chickens for sale with their heads and feet still on!

We met friendly Favergiens such as the gentleman (below left) who tipped his bérêt, while other students examined and bought books .

After we had had class, we all went to Yvette Millot's house for lunch in her garden. We ate wonderful salads, spaghetti topped with Yvette's excellent homemade bolognese sauce, cheeses and dessert. The photos below show Sharon digging into the salad and Jessica chatting with a neighbor's two-year-old, a child with excellent diction that is the envy of all the students in the group!

After lunch, we went on the local historical society's bus tour of the Faverges area; we went to Verthier, with its medieval stone bridge and mill race. Built in the Twelfth Century, it used to be a toll bridge on the main road that connected Milan and Geneva. It is still used by local traffic.

We then proceeded up a mountain to the village of St Germain, with its eponymous oratory, church and shrine dedicated to the 11th-century monk who spent the last years of his life as a hermit in a cliffside cave. The church dedicated to his memory has been visited by two popes (including the current Pontiff) and contains many relics of local religious figures, including St François de Sales, who preached locally.

The photos below show students walking along the cliff to the hermit's cave, as well as the cave itself. It is filled with crosses brought by pilgrims and ex-votos and plaques from grateful believers whose prayers were evidently answered after they asked for St Germain's intercession. People invoke St Germain to help cure nervous disorders in children.


The photo below left shows reliquaries in the church, and the student group in St Germain, high above Lake Annecy. You may see a larger version of the group photo by clicking on it.

The view from St Germain is spectacular on a good day, as you can see from the panoramic photo taken today.

From St Germain, we went up to the Forclaz mountain pass, from which we had a spectacular view of the entire lake. Students also examined the takeoff ramp for hang-gliders and pondered the possibility of jumping off a 2000-foot cliff some time in the near future.

From the Forclaz, we went to the mysterious Seven Fountains shrine. It is the only monument of its kind anywhere in Europe, and is believed to be an ancient Celtic water shrine that was christianized in the Twelfth Century. It bears the marks of many restorations over the centuries, and is situated in a beautiful forest at the foot of some spectacular mountains.

From the Seven Fountains, we returned to the valley floor and proceeded to visit several more sites, including the church in Seythenex, with its colorful baroque altarpiece. It is the best surviving example of an early Nineteenth-Century folk altarpiece, and was restored to its original brilliance just a few years ago.

The tour finally drew to an end after nearly five hours. We returned to Faverges, seeing its castle gleaming in the late afternoon sun. Everyone was tired from the long ride, the exhaustive but clear explanations given by our guide, Patrick Rendu, and by the heat of this late spring day.

Classes run all week; we also have cultural excursions planned for Friday afternoon and all of Saturday. The AFA banquet will be held Saturday evening into the early morning hours of Sunday. The group is scheduled to visit Geneva next Monday, May 31st.

The University is performing routine maintenance this Memorial Day weekend, turning off all power, so that the servers will not be operating. You will not be able to read these pages from Friday to Monday, nor will I be able to file the next report until next Tuesday (due to the time difference) ...


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Page and images ©1999 by Robert F. Jeantet


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